FROM MEXICO TO ARGENTINA 2006 - 07
CLIMBING HUASCARÁN 6768m, THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN PERU (Aug
2007)
photos
After climbing Pisco, I was ready for something really big.
The
biggest, in fact. My target mountain was called Huascaran
South,
the highest in Peru at 6768m. I found a climbing partner,
Stefan
from Germany, and together we took a day to organize our 4 day
excursion. We were joined by Janet from Huaraz, who only
wanted
to go to Camp 1 on the glacier. The next day we left early
for
the village of Musho. Once there, we hired 2 donkeys to take
our
heavy packs to the Base Camp. We climbed the dusty path
through
eucalyptus forest up to the Base Camp in 2.5 hours. From
there,
we had to carry our weight up to Refugio Huascaran. There was
no
path, just rocks quite steep sometimes. We arrived at the
Refugio
and pitched our tents nearby. After a cold night, we carried
on.
For un hour we walked up some rocks and we reached the
glacier.
Here, we had to change boots, put on crampons and warmer
cloths.
Going up the glacier was exhausting, my 35kg rucksack was
pulling
me down. In front of us, huge ice fields of Huascaran looked
intimidating. After 3 hours of walking finally we arrived at
Camp
1. It was already full of tents. A big expedition
had
porters and guides, together over 20 people.
We had 8 hours to rest before the climb. I couldn´t
sleep
but just lied down and did nothing. At 10pm we prepared
equipment
and started by following a clear path up the glacier. The
first
obstacle was a big crevasse with a piece of ice stuck in between the
walls. It looked as it was going to fall, so we crossed
carefully
roped up. We could see huge walls of ice around us, climbing
steeply between them. Before we reached Camp 2, wind picked
up
and I started to feel cold. My fingers and toes started to
hurt.
There was nowhere to hide from the wind. We saw
some tents
and decided to ask if we can rest there. But when we got
loser,
it turned out to be big chunks of ice, not tents! So we
carried
on. There was another crevasse to cross, followed by steep
ice
wall. Near the top of it, the rope caught my head torch and I
looked in despair as it fell down and disappeared in a big crevasse.
Fortunately, the sky was already changing color and I could manage
without light. I was cold and I was counting the hours before
the
first sun rays hit the mountain. Huascaran North was already
illuminated by orange light and looked spectacular, but we were on the
west side of Huascaran South and had to endure cold for a lot more
time. It was about -20C, but the wind factor made it feel a
lot
colder. The last few hours, we were getting more and more
tired.
The altitude and cold were taking it´s toll.
We had
to rest every 10 steps and I thought we were never going to make it.
But at 11am, we reached a flat platform and I realized that
there
is nothing higher in sight. We were on the top, we made it!!!
6768m above sea level!
After taking photos and resting for a few minutes, we started the long,
tiring walk down. I took some time abseiling down the
crevasse
where my torch disappeared but unfortunately I couldn´t find
it.
We walked, climbed and rappelled down the mountain
until the
sun set. Looking down on the dark mountains across the
valley,
the red sky and the black clouds, it was un unforgettable view.
Soon after we arrived at the campsite. The climb
took over
20 hours and we were simply exhausted. The next morning was windy and cold, -7C. Against the
instinct I
left my warm sleeping bag, cooked breakfast and packed my tent.
That day we walked down 2300m all the way to Musho, passing
glaciers, forest and finally fields where locals work in the full view
of Huascaran. 2 hours later, we were back in Huaraz, drinking
orange juice and with only one priority in mind- a long, warm
shower!
photos